Ultra-Trail Snowdonia (UTS) 50
“Beyond brutal. Beyond beautiful.”
Written by Gower Tan, ran by Gower, Andrea, Christina and 700 others.
Saturday 2nd July, 2022
It is worth taking a second to offer a bit of history and context for this event. Back in 2015, founder and race director Michael Jones was spending long days in Eryri / Snowdonia training for the legendary UTMB®️ (Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc) often wondering why there was no event in the UK like the international profile ultra-trail races he had participated in abroad. Taking the plunge and fast forward to 2017, he launched UTS: an instant success in its inaugural event. This year for the first time, UTS was badged as a UTMB World Series event, further raising the profile, while simultaneously gaining significant new investment and support. We know how challenging it is to stage a small community relay in Dulwich Park — cannot imagine how challenging it must be to organise something on this scale.
Sure, we could pick holes and there is always room to improve…..The eagerly anticipated, inspiring music on the start line (razzmatazz is something of a theme for UTMB races) as the countdown begins. Er… sorry the wifi has dropped. Did you not think of downloading the playlist? Nevertheless, with the new race HQ located at the National Slate Museum in Llanberis, we were blessed with a stunning backdrop for the start and end of this race. The best was still to come.
Preparation for each of us had ranged from less than ideal, to plain crazy. Gower was still repairing injuries sustained during the Thames Path 100 and also following a tumble during a training run along the North Downs. Christina had missed big chunks of training and preparation following Covid; this was compounded by a hectic work schedule leading up to the race that saw her almost abort before even getting to Llanberis, a succession of cancelled trains across the UK adding to the pre-race stress. Meanwhile Andrea had either misplaced his diary when signing up for races or taken complete leave of his senses — having completed the incredibly challenging Lavaredo Ultra Trail 1200k, another UTMB World Series race the prior week!
Remarkably, UTS 50k is the ‘baby’ of the weekend, with a 100k big brother and 165k / 100mi even bigger sister, for those wholly unhinged runners ……Next year I hear you say! Never say never. As the 165 got underway at 11am on Friday, with a 50hr cut-off and 10,000m elevation ahead, the buzz in the race village started to build. Watching these runners starting their race to the backdrop of the mountains, (not quite loud enough) music and red smoke flares, was fuelling our own excitement. Little did any of us know what would happen some 10 hours later.
Having rescued Christina from the train station after her mammoth trek to Bangor, our multi-national contingent (British, German, Italian) of intrepid DR crazies began making final preparations, snug in a beautiful cottage just outside Llanberis, our bodies in slightly less than perfect race conditions. Pasta and red wine obviously an obligatory part of this, after which attention turned to tracking the 165 runners.
As Gower was busily fixing every conceivable part of his legs with some form of tape, Andrea shouts out some ominous breaking news. ‘The 165 has been abandoned!’ Horrific weather conditions, driving rain, limited visibility and winds on the mountain peaks at dangerous levels. This did not bode well for our little pootle, and even less so for the 100k runners who were due to set off at 4am. We each finish our last glass of wine, commiserating the poor runners currently being repatriated from the mountains (everyone returned safely) and hit the sack. Tomorrow is another day!
We woke to the news that the weather had improved and the 100k runners had set off on time. This included several of the 165 crazies who had been offered the chance to switch. One runner overslept, so flipped again to the 50, as did many of the others. Fair play to them all. While the rain was now on and off, much lighter than it had been, the mountains and surrounding terrain were no longer just moist, but rather waterlogged in places and with streams and impromptu waterfalls cascading down the rocks — as we were about to find out!
As we made our way to the start, hoping to find a spare parking space in the race village, all matter of race tactics were discussed. Top of mind for Gower was the decision on running poles. Sticks or no sticks? Having never practiced with poles, save a couple of South Downs Way recces with Terry, the plan way to use UTS as a learning event in mountain running, poles and all. However, having diligently secured them as suggested, and listened to Andrea and Christina’s advice, a last minute change of heart 15 minutes before the start gun saw them consigned back into the boot of Andrea’s car.
Another decision we debated at length was rain jackets on or off? The mandatory kit list was extensive and, while some may question the necessity for many of the items, it would soon be very apparent why most were required. Even in the middle of summer.
The final countdown was approaching, phones went away after the last selfies, with smiling faces and optimism still high. Despite the failure of the music, the race began with an incredible buzz. We were on our way! The route would take us out of Llanberis with a 750m climb up Moel Eilio, then back down to Waunfawr, the first of three aid stations. Next 600m up Mynydd Mawr and down into Bron-y-Fedw aid station. Then the real fun would start, with the double peaks of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), then several ridges and back up to Y Lliwedd and down to the final aid station at Pen-y-Pass. Finally after another 700m climb, we would descend back down the tourist route to Llanberis, hopefully still in one piece, for celebratory beers.
This visualisation of the course, based on one of our actual GPX files, gives a far better idea of the terrain and technical challenge that would lay ahead.
None of us really had ambitions much beyond finishing within the 14 hour cutoff. Something around 10 hours would be great, but in truth it is hard to predict much beyond the next kilometre in an event like this. To illuminate that point, a queue and wait of between 5 and 10 minutes to get over this stile two kilometres into the race, was the first of many surprises!
After leaving the short road section out of Llanberis, the first grassy ascent already provided magnificent views and gave the legs a small taste of what was ahead. The first couple of climbs, while steep, were not too technical with the ridges and descents very runnable, albeit with a good dose of caution to avoid boulders hidden in the long grass. Within a couple of hours of running and hiking, the impact of the prior days downpour became apparent, with paths normally firm at this time of year, now resembling Parliament Hill in March, with the added benefit of hidden rocks. Better was yet to come!
Leaving the Y Waunfawr aid station, some steady running across moorland towards the foot of Mynydd Mawr — known locally as ‘Elephant Mountain’. As the approach to this climb came closer, the moorland turned to completely flooded heath, with ice cold water comfortably calf deep. This progressed to a short section more resembling a bog and while relatively small, it had to be crossed. The runner ahead of Gower had joined from the abandoned 165 event, so was undoubtedly far more experienced and would cross this with ease…… In an instant, everything below his waist disappeared into the water, and he then face-planted into the bog. Not being a fan of this open water swimming craze, a slight re-route seemed in order. Taking a path to the right, Gower then proceeded to perform an identical act, however with even less grace. Anything not in a dry bag was now soaked in ice cold bog water, just as the weather was turning and ahead of the more significant next ascent, up to the summit.
The view of all 15 Welsh 3000ft peaks to the north was a deserved reward for the climb. The following descent towards Foel Rudd was stunning, albeit terrifying for those scared of heights like Gower, the terrain falling away on both sides and ahead. The next descent was an unplanned chance to practice ‘fell-running style sliding down the grass on your arse’, completely in control of course!! Next a short section of forest which, in dry conditions, would have been beautiful however the single track was a quagmire of mud, with fallen trees at waist height straddling the path every few hundred metres and more hidden rocks lurking beneath the sometimes knee deep mud. Bron y Fedw Uchaf farm aid station was a welcome sight and chance to fuel up, ahead of the first of our two Snowdon ascents.
Onwards and upwards. Lots of up, with 62m+ elevation gain per km…the course description talks of ‘easy sections of scrambling’ — not entirely sure what difficult scrambling entails if this was easy!
Fed and watered, the route now took us to the Snowdon Ranger Path. Almost Alpine in character, this was predominantly loose and rocky, featuring several switchbacks in one part, up the steeper gradients. A runner ahead of Gower slipped and slid down several boulders, catching himself before a less pleasant outcome resulted. This completely unnerved Gower, who lost confidence and remained frozen, clinging to the rocks for a good five minutes, before giving himself a good talking to.
Closer to the summit, the incline backed off as we crossed the train line to join the far busier Llanberis Path to the Snowdon summit. By this point, it was raining again, the wind had picked up and the temperature felt like 1 or 2 degC. With clothing soaked in the bog, it was now very apparent why we were carrying all the mandatory kit. Approaching the summit, a row of people (unsure if runners or not) were huddled in bright orange emergency bivi-bags.
It was remarkable how many tourists, who took the easier and safer Llanberis path (or more likely the train) to the summit, wearing shorts and road shoes, now thought they would descend via the route we had taken up. Thankfully our polite suggestions that they should about-turn were largely well received.
In the relative shelter of a wall at the summit, Gower located the spare gloves saved by his sealed dry bag, nevertheless it still took a helpful hiker several minutes to help get these on, over his now blue, swollen fingers. Lessons learned.
In anything but the worst of weather, the Snowdon summit is busy and it resembled something of a zoo. Weaving in and out of people, the Watkin Path descent to the saddle of Bwlch Ciliau couldn’t come quick enough. Sadly, any expectation for a gentle, runnable slope was misplaced. For the next hour, any movement required the use of all four limbs, with barely any runnable sections.
We then headed to the west-bound traverse of the much quieter peak of Y Lliwedd. The trail here was incredibly technical, again requiring the use of hands to negotiate many sections of (not so easy) scrambling. The views below to Llyn Llydaw again offered some compensation for the effort to get this far.
After a runnable section across a brief plateau, the route then took a steep plunge down a technical, rocky single-track to join Snowdon’s Miner’s Track for a brief couple of kms of vehicle track, before arriving at the final aid station of Pen-y-Pass. One can never overstate the remarkable, reviving power of cold Coke. Sadly the soup was not so great, nevertheless re-fuelled with Twiglets, sandwiches, nuts and whatever else looked tasty, the finish was only a tantalising 12k and 650m climb away. A marshal offered reassurance that the final ascent was not at all technical….. not entirely certain she was being truthful. Still, a positive mindset and optimism was probably better than hearing the truth at this point.
Exiting the aid station, across the road, over the stile and up the grassy path leading to the next ascent, the lead 100k runner came flying past, shouting words of encouragement as he disappeared into the distance.
Our final ascent of the Snowdon massif came via the rocky Pyg Track, consisting of seemingly endless boulder hopping, intermixed with climbing up waterfalls. With the sun now making an appearance, this route became busier with hikers largely heading in the opposite direction.
As we eventually topped out at the ‘finger stone’, the final descent ran parallel to the railway, along the long Llanberis Path down to the finish. With 3000m of climb in our legs, the boulder hopping and people dodging seemed to last forever, until the slope eased off and gravel sections appeared where you could safely pick up speed and chase the shirt ahead.
A final short section of tarmac, a last minute detour only advised on the start line, back past the Royal Victoria Hotel, over the bridge straddling Llyn Padang and Llyn Peris, into the race village at the National Slate Museum, onto the red carpet to the cheers and awaiting beers!
Sitting in the race village changing tents, another runner slumps down on the picnic table style benches behind. Several minutes later, one of the race marshals (the same lady Gower had passed and chatted to at the first two aid stations) comes in and sits with this runner on the adjacent table. They are speaking French and Gower’s rusty interpretation suggests they are husband and wife. It is only later, as the presentation ceremony takes place, that all is reviewed.
Now some more history. As the race director opens the presentations with several deserved the thank-yous, he invites a lady onto the stage and introduces her to the audience. Now it becomes obvious…the lady who had been volunteering at aid stations, whose husband was running, was Mme Poletti. Michel and Catherine Poletti are the co-founders of UTMB. As the presentations continue, we learn that M Poletti won the M65 category.
It is easy to be cynical about big organisations swallowing up little ones. Ironman Group (or the World Triathlon Corporation to be more precise), themselves owned by US conglomerate Advance Publications, now part own UTMB or at least have formed a partnership. Only time will tell if this will be a good thing, with the new UTMB World Series. However we were reassured to see the founding couple, still wholly involved in the UTMB events.
Gower Tan, 08:43:24, 150th overall, 12th M50
Andrea Ceccolini, 09:50:24, 283rd overall, 29th M50
Christina Dimitrov, 10:50:43, 374th overall, 12th F35
~700 starters, 551 finished
